from Kautekeino to Alta
on leaving Kautekeino i headed directly north, having done a map reconnaissance and found out from the locals what the best way to Alta would be, i had chosen a route which should give me snowscooter tracks to follow the whole way
i had a rendez-vous to make in Alta in two days time; with Trygve Nygard, a Norwegian who completed the Lindesnes - Nordkapp transit this time last year. his help, and advice had been invaluable during the planning phase, and en-route he has provided encouragement and mapping
unless i could get to Alta by thursday evening i would miss him, as he was about to take a group of outdoors students up into the mountains for several days. this meant that i would have to try and cover over 100 km in 48 hours.
the first day went well, having good routes to follow means that you dont have to waste any time on navigation, i didnt get my compass out all day. during the day i made regular stops to take on fluids, and maintain a constant intake of calories (thermos tea and chocolate), however due to the pill regime i am on i had to plan around the instructions i had been given for taking them; dont eat for 1 hour before or 2 hours after taking this one, dont take this one unless you have just eaten, take this one only incase of extreme pain, and whatever you do, dont cross the streams
by 6:00 pm i had covered 50 km, i stopped to get out my cookset and boil some snow. chocolate may be great but it is no substitute for hot food, and for that you need to boil water from melting snow. it took me just 30 minutes to feed myself, change my socks, powder my feet, re-fill my thermos with hot sweet tea, check the route, and be off again
by 9:00 i could feel myself tiring, i needed to find some place to rest, somewhere i could have a roof over my head, and dry out my wet socks. having checked the map i could see that i was still at least two hours away from anyplace that would suit. that being the case, if i did manage to get there, it would be nearly midnight and they may not be open. luckily i was able to get a signal on my phone, so i called my father, who went on the internet with the name of the place i was heading for, found a guesthouse there, and called to warn them that there was an Englishman due to get in late
i reached the guesthouse just before midnight, and was given a bed. but i was too tired to sleep, i had to get up and have something to eat before sleep eventually found me at around 02:00. the next morning i felt like shit. muscles and joints were aching, but i still had a long way to go. i found i was so exhausted that i had to stop and rest on my ski poles every 100 metres, my pace dropped dramatically as the day wore on, and i began to feel sick. then the weather turned bad. it wasnt the worst weather i have seen on this trip, but it was no picnic; high winds and snow reduced visibility so that once again the trail became obliterated, and the trail markers were obscured in the white out.
i was feeling seriously uncomfortable about the situation. i felt very weak, and in the inclement weather it was not possible to stop and eat something to replenish the energy levels. i carried on through the bad weather, getting slower and slower and feeling weaker than ever. at one point i keeled over sideways, and lay there on the ground for a few beats, the lack of exertion and constantly straining tortured muscles felt delicious. i relaxed my shoulders and rested my head on the snow; if i just lay here then i could probably fall asleep before the chill started to creep into fingers and toes, it would be and end to the pain, and the cold would carry me away in my sleep without me ever knowing. of course i struggled to my feet and skiied on, it was just a thought which occurred to me for a fraction of a second, but it was a disturbing insight into the last few moments of other skiiers who must have allowed that lethargy to overcome them
the next few hours were unpleasant and hard; skiing against the wind all the way. i knew that the exhaustion i was feeling would be held off if i ate something, but i was feeling sick and the prospect of food was not welcome . my chocolate would be frozen so hard that to try and eat some would be to risk breaking a tooth, and the wind was so strong that it would be impossible to put up a tent to provide shelter enough to get a cooker going to cook some proper food. i had a salami in my pack, and i stopped to eat a few chunks, but just the time it took to do this was enough to freeze my fingers to painful numbness which only relented after i put them back in my mittens and skiied on for half an hour to get the blood pumping round the extremities again.
the situation was not good, but i was so exhausted that i couldnt get excited, or feel worried about it. i just put my head down and kept on skiing. eventually the route took me down into the valley, and out of the wind, and from there it lead to the mountain lodge at Gargia. this is where i was to meet Trygve. the lodge was very comfortable and while i was waiting the chef gave me a fantastic meal of reindeer heart and a coke for free. Trygve arrived with his girlfriend who has also skiied Lindesnes - Nordkapp, and took me to his flat where i was treated to another huge meal. we talked about our experiences and compared photos, despite being so tired i had a great evening. Trygve had to leave later that evening but he has let me have the use of his flat so that i can rest here for the day, and on saturday his girlfriend is going to drive me back to Gargia so that i can continue from there, cheers guys
p.s. some folks tried to make a comment on the last entry, but i spammed them by accident and i dont know how to un-spam them, sorry guys
April 25th, 2008 at 11:05 am
Dave
you are something else - what a fascinating story of a 100km dash that became a stagger to a successful end - well done indeed but your have obviously taken yourself to the bottom of your well of reserves so give yourself a a couple of easy days to store up some strength for the final push - your story only underlines how tough and and exposed your situation can be when the weather turns nasty - you coped this time and that is what matters but be wary - you know all about why most mountain accidents happen on the way down
enjoy the day
Donald
April 25th, 2008 at 3:11 pm
Dave
your followers may be interested in the exploits of a Scott Polar Research Team team at Gargia - see http://www.spri.cam.ac.uk/friends/events/dogsledge/2006/
April 25th, 2008 at 4:08 pm
Keep on plodding old boy, the finish line is in sight.
Take care, Quicky!!!!!
April 25th, 2008 at 6:13 pm
Hi D
Awesome entry today and quite exhausting to read about YOUR exhaustion and endurance, against the odds. The body is indeed a boiler which needs regular stoking, especially so in your case. Stay warm and On On MacDuff!
All love
The Godmother xxxxxooooo
April 25th, 2008 at 8:11 pm
Still looking out for you Dave and the maps’ looking great. Aren’t you doing well?! Get it cracked and then pop in to see us for a cuppa.
Rich Cantrill
April 26th, 2008 at 4:41 am
David, I have just been catching up on your last few weeks and am once again awed and inspired by your endurance, your ability to overcome all challenges and your spirit! Most of all, though, your writing is truly evocative with your descriptions of the elements and your journey. Your crossing of the river made my heart pound and I realised I was holding my breath until you were safely across! Here you are, battling nature on a huge scale and doing a Scott, Amundsen, Hillary etc, when a troublesome wisdom tooth comes up on top of all the other aches, to remind you that nature on a small scale is mighty powerful too. Not only is the whole thing dramatic, but you are still able to make me chuckle with your fantasies and humour - the book, the documentary, the film - all will be gripping. Continue to keep as sharp as ever and continue to keep safe. Much love, Jo and all Tangyes
April 26th, 2008 at 5:11 am
Dave,
Extremely good read.
What a time you’ve had, and what a gift you have with the pen!
Keep it up and you’ll be an Author of adventure tales that are not based in fiction as the majority are,
and what a novel that would make, don’t you agree?
Soldiering on will pay off shortly you’re very close to the goal, and everyone must be as excited as
we are.
We’re very proud of you.
John & Dawn
April 26th, 2008 at 12:09 pm
Dave
We are following you all the way - but only on the internet! What a fantasic effort and a great story. Good luck for the final push.
Take care
Malcolm & Fi
April 26th, 2008 at 4:58 pm
Dave
We’ve been following your progress and it’s great reading. Keep it up, almost finished. To make this journey alone is very impressive.
P.S liked the montage.
April 28th, 2008 at 11:08 am
Hi David!
I managed to reach Honningsvåg saturday 26 of april. I am waiting here for my father, that will arrive on Thursday. Together with him, I will walk the last piece to Nordkapp. If you get out here quick enough, it would be nice to meet you for a talk… I am checking your page as often as I can. Exciting reading…. I hope you will hace a nice trip up here!
Greetings from Ole Bjøråsen
NPL`08
April 28th, 2008 at 12:27 pm
hi Dave
Ole’s comment has at last identified for me where your final destination lies - now I understand that Nordcapp is on an island called Magerøya which you reach via a tunnel 4.5 mls long - that can fog up so you might get an underwater whiteout - and that the feature itself looks a bit like the white cliffs of Dover
may your weary body enjoy the view
Donald
April 28th, 2008 at 2:57 pm
Hi!
According to my browser there should have been two more updates since this one, although all correspondence seems to follow on here. Does everyone else have the same problem? I know from experience there used to be an area north of Alta up on the top where mobile phone communications did not operate, but we are/I am waiting for the next installment.
Keep at it Dave and let us know where you are - the map is all behind as well, that’s assuming that you have moved on! Perhaps the lure of Madame Bongo’s is stronger!!
No news -no donations!!!
Roger.
ps. You had a good bit of coverage in the Western Morning News today 28 April.
April 28th, 2008 at 4:29 pm
David -
Great to speak to you on the telephone on 23rd April - the swishing sounds of your skis as we spoke were very evocative.
Awesome entry above. Was glad to hear yesterday from Spud that you’ve had a bit more rest - very sensible as well as essential. Also, hope the loaned (replacement) ski boots prove up to the task, so that you are able to ski on (and not just have to walk).
Spud was very concerned that now you know when he’s coming out, you are trying to push yourself too hard. There is no deadline - repeat no deadline - for arriving at Nordcapp, save that you arrive safely and in one piece, whenever. So, please, for you and all of us, treat your health and welfare as your first and second priorities. We have all the time in the world - as does Spud - to wait patiently and celebrate what you achieve as and when. Take some time to be able to enjoy that too yourself.
Knowing you, you are planning one big final charge - OK, but preface that with attention to your own batteries first.
You are an absolute star, and may every good fortune accompany you on the remaining kilometres to your goal.
Lots of love, and longing to have you back here in blighty - hot dinners guaranteed!
Chris & Saija