was really looking forward to having a lie in and a really good sleep yesterday evening, and i thought i would go out like a light, but i couldnt get to sleep at all. eventually around about 03:00 i dozed off, only to wake again at 07:00

what - what is that all about

somebody owes me big for this. i am staggered by the unfairness of it. im a tired man, exausted from walking and skiing for something which seems to me pretty unselfish, im looking forward to some decent shut eye - and what do i get

still. i got pancakes for breakfast

have spent the day going through all my stuff and checking everything. i have put some washing in and because i have nothing else to wear i am in my gore-tex trousers and jacket. earlier today i hung my sleeping bag outside to get some air and hopefully relieve the faint aroma it has been developing (you shouldnt wash a sleeping bag as it will reduce the insulation properties) in the wind the bag was blown away and i spent several very nervous minutes running around in the snow looking for it - it is now found and hanging inside

the hotel here is really friendly and i feel more like a house guest than a hotel customer, i spent today watching nature programmes on the discovery channel

i would like to thank everyone who has been sending thier comments in to me, it is a real boost to morale to hear that someone is interested in what i am doing and has bothered to take the time to drop me a line, except for the guy who keeps trying to sell me viagra (do you really think im going to post your adverts here on this forum you pervert)

so anyway thanks for what you have all written - it is appreciated. if you are reading this and you didnt know about it, there is a feature which allows you to leave a comment at the bottom of each diary entry, feel free to chip in

another feature which the website has which some folks seem to be unnaware of, is that i have been posting pictures in the photo gallery, it is accessible from the menu bar at the top of this page, under the option “media” i have found that if you are on the diary page then it becomes innacessible, you have to go back to the home page, and then try to get in to it, dunno why, once you are there you can click on an image to see an enlarged version at the top of the page - anyone who writes in saying that they couldnt figure it out will be named and shamed in the next update. im afraid my photography skills aren’t the best so there arent that many pics, and as Ewan pointed out, you only ever bother to get the camera out when the weather is nice

once you have had a look at the pics tell me whether i should shave the beard off now that i have the chance - am interested to hear wether people think it looks good, bad, or whatever

todays headline in a norway newspaper - looks like i choose the right time to take a break; http://www.aftenposten.no/english/local/article2228978.ece

today i set out from liseth again and hitched a lift to the same place on the road where i had been forced to turn back yesterday, the road was open today and by 09:00 i was back on skis and making headway, overnight i had changed my plans; having been forced to turn back the day before due to bad weather, i had decided that to try and get to finse would be an unnecessary risk - the section of mountains i would be crossing, just to the east of the hardanger glacier are called the devils peaks, and they are known for their rapidly changing, unpredictable weather, and high winds. it was here that two British skiers lost their lives last year. i decided that instead of crossing this feature i would ski round to Haugestol over the course of two days, and then take a break at the hotel

the ski conditions were perfect, with hard snow which allowed a good glide, and a thin layer of powder  overtop - just enough to give some stability. as the day went on the sun came out and the wind picked up, but this time it was blowing from behind. the wind continued to grow in strength until i could ski with minimum effort, and i was eventually borne along by its strength, my pack acting like a sail, and propelling me forward. what a fantastic feeling to be getting these kilometers for free and be carried by the very elements which had hitherto done their utmost to hinder my progress, all i had to do was stay on my feet.

the speed i was making meant that i could once again accomplish two days skiing before nightfall, of course the ride couldnt last forever and eventually the wind direction and my intended course diverged, but the boost it had given me in kilometers and morale was enough to get me to Haugestol, and i cracked on knowing i was going to make it, the final section was all gentle downhill, and i was able to enjoy the skiing without the fatigue once again

i am now at the hotel in Haugestol, its really nice, i have a large comfortable room looking out over a frozen lake, with some fantastic views of the mountains. the owner has very kindly offered me a discount  i am going to spend at least a couple of days here, as i have been on the move now since the 22nd. god knows how many kilometers, and how much altitude i have lost and gained, i really dont want to know.

hopefully some elements of the Marines will be able to meet me here tomorrow with a resupply of rations to extend my range, and my father should be coming out to meet me again, bringing the next packet of maps with him, so now it is time to rest, eat, and get some washing done - i havent had the chance to do any laundry since hovden, and i dont smell too great

set off from Liseth early to try to get to the cabin at kjeldebu, after about 3 hours walking along the road i came to a road block - the road was closed due to bad weather, but i pressed on anyway hoping for the best, as i came around the mountain to the place where i would start skiing again i was hit by the wind, i pressed on, but the intensity only increased

it was the worst wind i have ever experienced, nearly ripping the clothes from off me, i took temporary shelter in an abandoned barn and considered what to do, i decided that to press on in this would be irresponsible - especially after all the warnings i had had, so after having donned my face mask and goggles i started back, once i had reached the shelter of the valley i could either hitch a lift onwards with one of the snow ploughs, and come back to do this section, or go back to Liseth and wait for good weather, and i decided on the latter, now i am back at liseth, courtesy of the owner again (the comfort of this location had nothing to do with my decision) and i am pissed off to have been thwarted by the weather. still, tomorrow is a new day, the weather is set to get worse but you never can tell and it may still be possible to get to finse by the end of the month

left from Bu after thanking my host - a very nice guy, and very concerned for my safety. the walk up from Bu to fosli was really hard - huge foreboding mountains loomed up on either side as i walked deeper and deeper into the valley, the mountain tops being lost in the clouds, great black masses of sheer rock dusted with snow and occasional stunted trees - childe dave to the dark mountain went

the road was winding and steep, the rucksack straps dug cruelly into my shoulders and i adjusted the weight constantly, tightening the waistbelt, or the shoulder straps alternately to shift the weight from one load bearing surface to another

it occurred to me that i am probably carrying more weight than some people will bother to lift in their entire lives, and i spend hours on the road considering the usefulness of each bit of kit and whether or not i could ditch it - but it is all necessary

at one point i started hectoring the mountains “you think your tough do you? you aint so tough - im gonna bend you over and ski all over you, and then im gonna do the same to your friends” - and much more of the same, though most of it unrepeatable, shouting at the top of my voice - it felt good to vent my frustration at something

sometimes i imagine that i am a piece on some infernal board game being played out by the gods. as the dice is cast and a fresh challenge is set as the cards are dealt; “what shall we send him next? rain, sleet, snow, high winds, tight boots, tribulation, temptation ((like when a car full of pretty girls stopped to ask me if i wanted a lift) i declined) blizzards and storms? (please no avalanches) in my imagination it is a pretty goddess who is rolling the dice in my behalf, and chiding the other gods for being too harsh on me (didnt Dr Faust go to hell for that kind of thing?)

this evening i reached a place called Liseth and met a kind man who let me stay in one of his holiday cabins, i was totally unprepared for what i found, a beautifully decorated luxury cabin - flat screen tv, 12 foot long leather sofa, floor heated shower, i couldnt believe my luck, and i was also treated to a very good meal - amazing comfort and fortune after such a hard day

today i walked about 35 km and came up from sea leve to 800 m - not bad going, but my feet are paying the price, lots of aches and pains, i will just have to see if any of them become permanent when i get up in the morning

left Loftus early this morning by moonlight, the sleet from the night before had frozen and the road surface was slippery. twice i tried to walk up a slope only to slide slowly back down again, and i was able to get up only after i had atached metal studs to my shoes - ice toes i call them, several more times today i had to stop and re-attach the ice toes when i came to an icy section of road

the weather was good (this is only the second day of good weather ive had on the entire trip) and aside from the pain of my feet and pack straps it was pleasant walking alongside the fjord, with huge mountain peaks rising out of the water on either side and stretching up towards the clouds. but the impressive size of the mountains on either side carried a grim reminder - now i am at sea level, but in a few days time i will have to have reached and exceeded the height of those mountains

in the afternoon after having reached my target for the day i began looking for a place to stay, and i have been very lucky in having found a host who has fed me, and is giving me a bed for the night. he has also advised me that the route which i was planning to take would be suicide at this time of year. he introduced me to two of his friends who are in the local mountain rescue, and between them they have worked out a route which is much safer. but i have promised not to try and ski to finse if the weather is too bad - one of the mountain rescue guys had to recover the bodies of two British skiers who perished in these mountains last year

so i am doubly indebted to my host - once for his hospitality, and once for having prevented me from taking a fatal route - sometimes it feels like there is someone watching out for me

this morning i availed myself of the free breakfast which the Tyssedal Hotel had kindly provided. i had five helpings of waffles smothered in squirty cream, raspberry jam, and topped with sugar and hot chocolate mix - it felt sooo good to make such a pig of myself, surely there can be nothing better in the morning than a hotel breakfast with no limits on what you can eat, i also had a bowl of cereal, a huge plate of smoked salmon, a thermos of chocolate coffee and made myself a sandwich for later

made good progress today despite wind and rain, covering 25 km within a few hours, arriving back at the house of the mate of my fathers with whom i spent the night before last (i cant mentioning names of those who have helped me as to do so would take far too long, and i would probably forget someone - you know who you are and i am indebted to you all) after a hot shower and a snooze i am ready to begin the next leg tomorrow - hopefully another 25 km, and then the day after tomorrow i may be able to start skiing again. it depends on the weather, if it is too bad i may have to shelter in the simadalen valley until this storm has passed

am now over half way up the length of the hardanger vidda and if the weather lets up enough for me to make the two day dash to finse i may stiil be able to get there for the end of the month - on schedule

today the friend who had met me last night, dropped me off on the road at the same place where he had picked me up the night before - no cheating allowed. the weather was truly awful and as i walked north towards odda the winds were literally blowing me off the roads, i have never experienced winds so high

at the point when the winds reached their most fierce i began insulting the elements as i struggled along the road, at some points i had to cling to the barriers to prevent from being blown away “come on you pussy - is that all you got” it was good to scream at the mountains and there was no one to hear me, but after half an hour the wind died down enough to continue unimpeded - no wonder the road east is closed today

at odda i bought some trainers to walk in, walking in ski boots is very bad for the feet and i have developed some worrying pains in my legs and ankles - just have to hope that they go away.

this evening i reached tyssedal and from the road i saw a smart looking hotel, i knew i hadnt the money to stay, and my usual tactic in populated areas is to knock on doors and ask if i could sleep in thier garage, but i thought why not give it a try - amazingly it worked and i am a guest at the Tyssedal Hotel, thanks to the manager and the staff here who have been very kind

set off early from roldall to try and continue the walk west around the hardanger vidda plateau, it was all set to be one of the most spectacular sections of the trip but i will have to skip it and walk on roads until i get to a town called eidfjord where i should be able to resume skiing and get to finse, hopefully in finse i will be able to meet up with some elements of the Marines, and maybe get a resupply of arctic rations which will extend my range, so that i can be independant of the huts for a little longer incase i find that more of them are closed as i go north

the DNT system of huts is amazing, if you are a member of the DNT then for a fee you can use their network of isolated mountain cabins, in each one there is food and firewood, and i had been using them as far as haukelisetter

the walk today was hard with some punishing uphill climbs, walking in ski boots is not really smart, and bad for the feet. since i began this trip i have been through three pairs of boots. the first were excellent but too small and caused me excruciating blisters which turned to sores, the second gave me a whole new set of sores, and if anything were more painfull, at haukelisetter my dad brought with him a pair of marine issue ski-march boots, and amazingly they seem to be the best fit so far.

ski boots are pain - anyone who says otherwise is trying to sell something

at the hara pass en-route there was a cafe before the long tinnel beneath the pass, the weather was truly terrible, high winds and snow, making an above ground crossing of the pass impossible, but it is strictly forbidden to walk through the tunnel so i decided to stop in the cafe and sniff around before making a break through the tunnel entrance, maintenance crews were working in the tunnel entrance and i was unsure of my chances of getting past them

in the cafe i was asked where i had come from and where i was going, i told them, and in return i was treated to a free cheese burger, and told that my best chance to get throught the tunnel was just to smile and wave at the maintenance crews as i walked past, i thanked the staff and gave it a try - it worked and i made it through the tunnel without being stopped. 6 km, a long way, and on the other side the weather was so bad that i had to wear goggles just to see where i was going, but made it to skare that night where i was met by an old friend of my fathers who has put me up for the night - it is amazing how may friends my father has in some high and low places - the old boy network he calls it , and without some of his contacts i would certainly have come to grief already. this guy was amazing and he met me with a handshake and a cold beer

the next day the road i had taken was closed due to bad weather, so i got through just in time - what it would have been like up on the vidda i dread to think - maybe having to take this detour has been a blessing in disguise 

another massive setback - was all set to leave this morning and begin the long ski trek across the hardanger plateau, when i found out that none of the cabins in between haukelisetter and finse will be open until late feb.

without any possibility of shelter or resupply across this long stretch of wilderness i would have to carry at least 10 days worth of rations in order to make it to finse, the only way to do this would be to tow a pulk, and the snow conditions are such that this would be next to impossible for one man - or at least for this man

the awnser is to walk around the hardanger, adding nearly 100 km to the distance - gutted. within minuites of finding out about the newest problem i realised what i would have to do and began walking east, its a real shame as i had been led to believe that the cabins would be open during this period and i was really looking forward to skiing across the hardanger vidda plateau - s**t happens

the weather was pretty bad, but on the route between haukelisetter and roldall was a 5 km tunnel which sheltered me from the elements for part of the journey, but it was pretty creppy having so many millions of tons of rock overhead. i reached roldall by nightfall and a kind campsite owner allowed me to stay in one of his cabins

it has been crushing to suffer yet another setback to the plan - this is supposed to be skinorway, not walknorway and the new route means many more kilometers, just have to find a way around each problem as it arises

i awoke early and packed my gear, preparing to leave despite the storm still raging outside - after three nights in the same place i was not going to wait any longer, as i left it may have died down a little, or it may have been my imagination

skiing and navigating in the high winds and snow was hard and i was beginning to think that i had made a mistake in moving out, i was considering turning back again but pressed on - amazingly by 10:00 the winds had died down and a little later the sun came out and the clouds cleared - beautiful weather, i could see for miles

i resolved to try and do two days skiing in one day - to make the most of the good weather while it lasted and get to hauklisetter that night, so i went hell for leather, up hills and mountains and across frozen lakes, pausing only to take a few sips of hot tea and throw down a slab of chocolate at the bottom of each hill - like popeye eating spinnach, or a super mario brother eating a mushroom, to recharge my energy levels before the next challenge

the snow and mountains were amazing - someone somewhere probably has the vocabulary to convey how awesome the spectacle was, words like majesty, beauty, and grandeur simply do not cover it - suffice to say that i loved it. i imagined i was skiing across a huge frosted doughnut, everywhere the snow was crisp and white in the sunlight - delicious

as evening approached and the moon came out i found myself skiing down from the mountains to the lodge at haukelisetter, still 8 km away it was hard going - but i knew i was going to make it - two people who both knew a lot about skiing in Norway had said to me that if i could make it to haukelisetter then i could make it to Nordkapp, and this knowledge sustained me on the long moonlight ski. Nordkapp was still over 2000km away and there would be many more uncertainties and difficulties ahead, but i was going to complete this section no matter what, and once i did i would have a fighting chance to get to the cape

i eventually reached the lodge after 10 hours hard skiing, tired but satisfied, i was at the check in desk of the lodge when i noticed a familiar figure - obviously an Englishman, conversing in broken Norwegian with the bemused receptionist.

it was my father - he had come all the way from England to meet me at this critical stage, an amazing meeting, an amazing gesture, and a once in a lifetime encounter. great to see him, despite it being late we got a plate of food from the kitchens and had a beer together and talked about the trip and the skiing conditions. it was brilliant to see him and tell him my stories from the journey, he had expected me the day before, and had been worried about me in the storms

that night i had a hot shower and slept in a bed with sheets, after one of the best days skiing i have ever had, and one of the most unexpected and welcome encounters. with many kilometers behind me but many more to go - a fantastic feeling, and one which i wish i could share with everyone